GINAGRAPHX Illustrators
Artists ~ Muralists ~ Illustrators ~ Designers
Diamond effect can be large like shown or in a smaller diamond shapes!
Trompe L'oeil
Decorative Painting
By Gina Bucci
Pro Faux Finishing If you like the color, creativity and moods of faux painted walls,
here is an incredible opportunity to learn some great techniques. Faux Finish come in multiple colors and textures: ragging, sponging, a popular old world finish and many more decorative paint techniques you can use to decorate the walls and other areas of your business and or home interior and also exteriors. It is easy to learn simple tricks of the trade and many tips designed to make you look like a professional
The basic decorative painting principals and demonstrations:
1. Faux Finishing
2. Wall Murals
3. Borders
4. French Lettering
5. Childrens Rooms
6. Nursery
7. Furniture
8. Portraits (Please bring your favorite photo)
9. Scenery / Grapes/ Vines/ Vineyards/ Roses / Bluebonnets
10 Venetian Plaster
The best place to decide how, what and where you should start painting is to source through magazines, Home Interiors, Coastal Homes, Home Magazine, Metropolitan; Newspapers, and Star Gossip Tabloids. etc.... Some stars are spending up to $50,000 on murals and fauz walls for their nurseries!
The are now many Non Toxic Paints available on the market. This makes it safe for everyone involved!
The hottest and most expensive trend is: Venetian Plasters. These Italian plasters have been developed for generations dating back to ancient Rome and have most recently become some of the most sought after finishes. A Venetian Plaster finish can range in sheen and texture from a smooth highly
polished marble-like finish to a distressed, stone-like Tuscan appearance.
Using actual ground limestone and marble dust in lime putty, walls can have
the authentic feel and look of stone. Our trained artisans can apply this special plaster
in an infinite number of color combinations to coordinate and enhance your décor.
Venetian Plaster is applied with a trowel in multiple layers, which determines
the color and dimension of the finished wall. The surface is literally a layer
of stone more durable than drywall and up to 1/8" thick. The result is an allergy
free, mildew resistant, and long lasting durable finish. Much like fine red wine, your sealed Venetian Plaster finish will not fade, but will become more beautiful with age, adding to the uniqueness and value of
your home or business, interior and exteriors!
GLOSSARY
Antiquing or Ageing: A technique intended to give the appearance of age or wear.
Borders: Stenciled and hand painted borders are used to soften the edges of rooms
and ceiling lines and add interest to the space.
Brocade stencil finish: A highly decorative stencil is applied in flat sheen paint
over a broken color finish in a satin sheen. The stencil is repeated in a pattern,
giving the walls the appearance of "brocade" fabric.
Canopy or tented ceiling: A trompe l'oeil painting on ceilings depicting the inside
of a canopy or striped tent.
Children's Murals: Baby nurseries and children's rooms are perfect places to apply murals,
either on the walls, ceilings or floors. Themes can vary from a circus tent, African
savannah, and the stands of Fenway Park to a fantasy mural with castles and fairies.
Color Wash/Old World: This finish creates the illusion of an old Tuscan plaster effect.
By applying multiple layers we can create depth and movement and a hint of drama.
Combing: A technique of pulling a toothed "comb" through wet paint. The comb can be made
of a material such as: rubber, metal, leather, plastic or cardboard.
Crackle: A finish in which cracking is intentionally produced, allowing the undercoat to show through the cracks. A rapid drying of topcoat over slow drying undercoat produces this interesting technique.
Cross-hatch or Basket Weave finish: A technique of dragging a toothed "comb" through wet paint in both vertical and horizontal directions to achieve a "basket weave" appearance.
Design: A sketch drawn to scale on grid paper, representing the final layout of mural composition.
Distressing: Also a term used to describe a decorative paint finish that gives the appearance of age and wear.
Faux Finishes: French word meaning "fake or false". Technically, wood-graining, marbleizing, or other painted finishes that are replicating a natural material are faux finishes. However, this term has become an umbrella name to describe all painted decorative finishes.
Faux Wood Grain: creating the illusion of wood using tools and paint.
Fresco: An ancient mural technique using wet pigments as paint on un-cured plaster. Faux fresco is a mural technique that gives the appearance of an aged and weathered fresco using contemporary paint products.
Frottage: (in decorative painting) This comes from the French word meaning “to rub”. The decorative paint term denotes a technique of applying a wet glaze, then rubbing it with fabric, paper or other materials, to create a texture.
Garland border: A traditional painted border that depicts various leaves, fruits and flowers in a swag design.
Gilding: The application of metal in any form (gold or other metallic leaf, metallic foil, metallic paint, metallic powder, etc.).
Glazing: Process of applying a tinted, but transparent paint over a base coat to create a softly modulated, watercolor effect. The darkness of the basecoat and the number of layers of glaze applied can create a rich saturated appearance and works well in dark reds, blues and greens.
Grisaille: Architectural trompe l'oeil painting done in monochromatic colors suggesting solid form, perspective or decorative plasters motifs.
Harlequin diamonds: Harlequin diamonds are painted in a pattern in either subtly contrasting colors or sheens and can also be applied in a subtractive paint finish, creating a classic and elegant appearance.
Landscape murals: A mural that depicts the outside environment including the sky, the foreground and distant horizon line between the land or sea and sky.
Marbleizing: A faux finish that creates the illusion of marble.
Metallic finishes: Decorative finishes that use metallic paint in various techniques over other painted finishes. Golds, silvers and bronzes are used over different colored base coats to achieve the appearance of antique gold, burnished bronze or shimmering silver.
Murals: My favorite...A mural is defined as a painted picture on a wall or ceiling.
On-Location Sample: A sample of the finish intended for the walls or ceiling is painted on a section of the wall in the room so that client can approve the finish before the entire room is treated. Better accuracy in color selection and texture is achieved when sample is done on the same walls and over the same base coat that the rest of the finish will be applied onto.
Opaque paint layers: Any paint finish layer that is made from a pastel base paint with titanium pigment will soften and possibly lighten the affect of the decorative paint finish. Opaque paint finish layers allow the faux finisher to correct and soften the previous layers.
Opentime: This is a faux finish term used to describe the time available to work a technique before the paint dries. Opentime™ is also a product used as an additive to any water-base paint to lengthen the drying time. This product is manufactured by Kingfisher Decorative Paints and can be ordered through this web site.
Paint sheen: All house paints and glazing liquids have different sheens and can affect the success of certain decorative paint techniques. They will also affect the final look and appearance of the room. Paint sheens vary from flat (a non reflective, dull finish) to high gloss.
Patina: A thin greenish layer that forms on copper or copper alloys, such as bronze, as a result of long exposure to the elements and often valued aesthetically for its color. It gives a surface appearance of something grown beautiful with age or use.
Pigments: Material mixed into paint bases to create paint colors.
Rag Roll: A decorative paint technique that involves applying or subtracting color by “rolling” a damp crumpled rag over the wall surface.
Ragging: A decorative paint finish that is either applied or subtracted with a crumpled damp rag.
Reference material: Pictures from magazines, books, Internet or personal photos that the artist uses as a guide in color selection, techniques, or mural painting.
Sample: The finish that is to be painted on the walls or ceiling is painted on a section of wall or on a board to show the client what the final outcome of finish will be.
Scene Painting: Traditional techniques used in theatrical set design production, involving many of the same skills utilized in mural painting and faux finishes.
Sketch: Preliminary drawing of proposed mural painting.
Skyscape murals: A mural that depicts mainly a sky.
Sponging: A broken color effect produced by either applying color or removing color by pouncing with a natural sponge while paint is still wet.
Stencil: A tool used to apply a repeated image or pattern by dabbing paint on a commercial sponge or stippling brush over the negative space cut out of a sheet of mylar or stiff oak tag.
Stipple: A decorative treatment also known as"Pouncing". A glaze or paint is applied to the surface and while it is wet, a stippler is pounced onto the surface causing the glaze to disperse into tiny dots. Stippling gives a very even film of glaze while removing brush strokes in a wet glaze.
Stone block: This is a trompe l'oeil technique giving the painted surface the appearance of a stone block wall.
Strie: A technique used for achieving a subtle mix of fine stripes (or brush strokes) by pulling a dry, stiff bristled brush or rubber comb through wet paint.
Stripes: Stripes are applied over a basecoat or faux finished surface in a width suited to the scale of the room. Stripes can be applied with a subtractive technique and in a subtly contrasting sheen creating a soft and rich effect.
Subtractive technique: Any paint technique that is first applied and then “subtracted” with a sea sponge, rag, plastic bag, or other tool, creating a subtly textured effect.
Texture: Paint finishes create various degrees of 2-dimensional texture by adding or subtracting gently contrasting color paint in the techniques described above. 2-dimensional texture adds warmth, character, and depth to an interior.
Transparent paint layers: Any paint finish layer that is made from a neutral base or glazing liquid will be semi-transparent and will darken the finish with each additional layer. The basecoat color will be tinted by the transparent paint or glazing liquid.
Trompe l'oeil: French expression meaning, "To deceive the eye". A painting technique in which an illusion of depth and reality is created by emphasizing highlights and shadows. In art, trompe l'oeil is defined as a 'still life deception', a painting able to make the viewer believe that an object actually exists in 3D space, in relief. It also means illusion, a deceptive appearance, eyewash or camouflage, in short 'Fool the eye'!
Venetian Plaster: Involves the application of pigmented limestone and marble dust to create the look and feel of authentic stone.
Faux finishes are the hottest thing in wall covering since pre-mixed paint in a can. Instead of flat painted linen white, choices can include a soft-sponge cloudy texture in sage greens, or crisp wide stripes in neutral tones, or a scholarly stippling finish in leather browns. The choices are endless and the results can be beautiful when done right. Here are some of the key choices you'll need to make to ensure a great result.
Color: Before choosing the main color, consider: any color other than off-whites that you see on a color chip at the paint store will intensify significantly when painted over an entire wall. For instance, a color chip of light aqua green might appear to be screaming turquoise when applied to a wall. With that in mind, try picking a slightly lighter or more subdued version. For the base color you will need the tint that is 2-3 shades lighter on the color chart.
Add at least 2 layers color for your faux finish. The first layer should be the main color chosen and applied consistently over the walls in the technique desired, making sure to get all the way to the edges of base board, moldings and trim. The second layer of faux finish should be slightly lighter than the first and made from opaque paint. Therefore it will soften the first layer and hide any blemishes. Always keep the differences in the colors suitable and avoid high contrast combinations like the plague (such as royal blue on top of a white base coat). After you've mastered a suitable approach to color choice, try experimenting with complimentary colors such as a golden yellow base coat and light terracotta textured layers on top. Or try a lavender blue base coat with chalk blue "washed" decorative paint finish on top.
Oil or Latex? Some faux finishers insist that oil paint is the only way to go, but I beg to differ. I am an experienced faux finisher with over 20 years of professional service under my belt and have never used oil paints. What's the secret? Dilute the paint, work in layers and apply small sections at a time. If you're still not convinced here are a few incentives for using latex paint.
Easy water clean up. No need for turpentine or thinners that give the painter headaches, are highly flammable (Thus making painters liability insurance higher) and are considered toxic waste.
Drying time allows second coats to be applied within 1 hour. Oil paint takes up to 24 hours to dry.
Latex paints are non-toxic and low odor. They are also kinder to the environment. Oil paint fumes remain in interior space for several weeks, especially during winter months.
Prep Makes Perfect: The walls should be prepared in the same way as they would be for a regular paint job. Unfortunately there are no short cuts with the prep, except for the fact that a faux finish does hide uneven color or surfaces on older walls very well. The trim, including base boards, door and window frames, and ceiling moldings should all be taped off unless they are to be painted after the walls. It is important that you use the right tape: blue masking tape, 2" from Anchor or 3-M. The wrong tape selection can mean an "un-clean" edge where the finish paint has seeped through the tape, or trim paint can be pulled off.
Which Faux Finish?: There are a million different faux finishes a painter could try, but the soft-sponge finish (also known as "add/subtract") is the reigning queen of finishes. It's relatively easy, works in lots of color scheme, is subtle, and everyone likes it.
Sponging Techniques: After all of the materials have been prepared, the walls are base coated and you're ready to go. Start by painting an area with rough haphazard strokes, covering an area of about 2'x2'. Put the brush down and take your damp sea sponge (do not use synthetic sponges in this technique) and dab the painted area in a consistent, even motion, until all the painted surface has been "sponged off". Essentially you are adding paint with the brush and subtracting paint with the sponge. Continue sponging off beyond the painted area into an approximate margin of 6" surrounding the area to make the edges soft. Rinse and squeeze out excess water from sponge between every new area/shape.
Move on to the neighboring area. Leave approximately 3" un-painted border between other sponged areas and repeat steps described above. To blend the sections' edges, tap sponge back and forth over the 3" border and the previously painted areas until everything looks fairly consistent. Continue on until all surfaces are done. Step back to check your work, paying special attention to the edges near the tape. If you see bare spots along the taped edges, use a small paintbrush and paint and sponge off those areas. Do not be too particular as there will be another layer.
After all the walls are complete with the first layer, prepare for the second add/subtract layer. Follow the same technique as the first sponged layer while covering what you don't like and leaving unpainted what you do like. Blend over painted brush strokes with the same tapping method using the sponge. Also, do not follow the same shapes from the first sponged layer. Make new loosely painted odd shapes. Paint solidly along taped edges of trim and ceiling and sponge off in the same technique. Stand back and admire your work!
Stand back and admire your work! Faux finishes are a great choice for interior spaces. They're also rewarding projects for do-it-yourselfers with a flare for color and interior decorating. Have fun and try something in a small powder room and move onto the master bedroom once you've mastered a few tricks. If the faux finish is not what you had in mind, don't worry, it's just paint and can be covered easily. You can always try again. Either way, faux finishing will add a beautiful new dimension to your home.
MURALS
Express your home or business! The subject matter and style are important elements of murals, which is why we consult with our clients and produce research and reference material that will lead to a design. After the client’s approval we use a systematic approach, incorporating the design, layering of background, foreground, and details, and thus transforming the room into the chosen environment.
Arteriors is a team of accomplished artists that provide the mastery of perspective drawing and representational painting required of mural painting. Our murals imbue the interiors where they live with an enormous amount of class, distinction, and personality.
ITALIAN TUSCANY FAUX FINISHING
Faux Finish Makes What's New "Old World"
"Old world" is my own term for a faux finish that is also known as "fresco," "distressed plaster," "Tuscany," and other names. The finish is meant to look like that of an old exterior wall in Europe, a kind usually found near the Mediterranean Sea. You see these beautiful walls in places like Italy, the South of France, Spain, and Greece. In reality it occurs on stone buildings that are plastered with calcium paint. Calcium paint partially dissolves in water and tends to fade in the sun. The rain and the sun discolor it in a graceful way. Add to that age and the exposure of different layers applied at different times, and you get the look that we associate with "old world" Europe.
How does one create this finish in a fraction of time that it took nature to achieve? In the world of faux finishing it is done by manipulating several layers of paint until you have achieved the desired look. For example, I put dark colors over light in random shapes and sponge it off just as the paint begins to dry. This gives a pattern that looks similar to the real thing. Then I sponge on another color to suppress the dark areas and discourage some of the shapes. With highlights and shadows I will encourage other shapes until it looks like the real thing. I also use flat finish paint for a more authentic look because in reality any original sheen has been worn away by the rain and sun.
When I was first asked to do this finish, I thought it was somewhat ridiculous because I grew up next to the Mediterranean Sea where a lot of the buildings that look like this were found in the older, poorer parts of town. This look was not associated with European charm but rather with poverty and depression. As a kid I painted houses in the summers and was asked to erase the worn look with a fresh coat of paint. However, my view is very different now- In these modern times when everything is new and high tech we feel like something is missing. Today, new homes are perhaps the best built and most comfortable ever, but short on character and ambiance such as the "old world" is full of. Since we cannot buy a French chateau or an Italian villa in Newton, MA, we provide a bit of this history and charm with faux finishes. It is a trend that doesn't seem to be going away any time soon.
PREP TIME
Have you always wanted to faux finish your home but were fearful of the process? Now you can with Sandra's Recipe Cards -- 20 classic faux finish designs by renowned faux finisher Sandra Kiss London. Each card includes a 6"X9" full-color sample, professional tips and step-by-step photo instructions... 20 recipe cards in all. Go to www.fauxlikeapro.com/recipe-card.asp or call 1-888-765-4950 to order. Ask for our Internet special !
Color Wash
This free-form finish is known for its subtle variations of color and natural, soft glow. Supremely versatile, it can be adapted to any living environment - from modern to traditional. It imparts a peaceful, tranquil feeling that adds to the comfort of any room of your home.
Base Color
Benjamin Moore Paint #70
Glaze Colors
(A) Benjamin Moore Paint #2165-40
(B) Benjamin Moore Paint #AC-9
How-To Instructions
Prep 1:
Before base coating, make sure your surface is in good condition. Patch holes and cracks with spackling paste, and wash any dirt from surface using a mild soap. Mask all windows, baseboards, and moldings using 2” painter’s tape. Evenly apply paint with roller. Base coat should always be a satin or semi-gloss latex finish. Two coats may be necessary depending on coverage. Let dry 24 hours.
Prep 2:
Before you faux, prepare your glaze/paint mixture(s). A 5:1 ratio (5 parts Faux Like A Pro glaze to 1 part paint) is highly recommended. This ratio will allow you time to work the finish and prevent it from drying too fast.
Step 1:
Colorwash is a wet-on-wet technique in which transparent strokes of color blend together seamlessly. Dip tip of 4" latex brush into glaze A, then apply with long criss-cross strokes, swinging your arm freely from the shoulder. Place strokes randomly, leaving portions of the base coat showing through. Work in 3 sq. ft. areas until each wall is complete. Do not stop in the middle of the wall.
Step 2:
Work over the same area, brushing on glaze B as in step 1, filling in the blank spots, but still leaving hints of the base coat showing through.
Step 3:
While the glaze is still wet, pass over it with a clean, dry, bristle block brush, using powerful sweeping strokes to melt the two colors together. Work your surface until you have achieved a soft cloud like effect.
Step 4:
A badger softening brush can be used as a final step to further soften the surface and eliminate any visible brush strokes. Move the brush in light figure-eight patterns over the entire surface.
Tip 1
When applying colors keep your strokes random, yet balanced. Avoid creating dark blotches of color.
Tip 2
Remember that blending requires long brush strokes and a lot of pressure. This is an energetic process. Keep your upper body free and open, constantly making contact with the wall.
Tip 3
If your finish turns out looking too dark or too bright, you can soften the wall by dry brushing over it with a touch of the base color. Put the base coat into Faux Like A Pro glaze using the 5:1 ratio.
FINAL FINISH
Supplies: Available Now On-Line at www.Fauxlikeapro.com
- gallon of glaze
- bristle block brush
- badger hair softener
You will also need the following basic supplies from your local hardware store:
- two 4" latex all purpose brushes
- paint roller
- medium nap roller
- roller tray
- 3" latex cutting brush
- large bucket for water
- 2 containers to hold glaze/paint mixture
- painter's tape
- paper plates for off loading paint
- latex gloves
- rags for clean up
- drop cloth
USA
